The capital of Arizona is a tourist magnet that claims to have more five-star hotels than any other U.S. city. Golfers in the know favor its countless world-class courses. Nature lovers can't get enough of the desert canyonlands. Museums honor the ancient native culture, and performing arts centers thrive on today's creative talent. If you just want to be pampered, this is "spa central." Nowhere else in Arizona will you find this harmonious contrast between city and wilderness. More than half the state's population lives in the urban basin around Phoenix, yet just beyond its borders are craggy mountains, vast forests and a huge temperate desert. A western sense of informality and leisure keeps the pace relaxed.